The Polar Bear: Ice Cream at the Happy Place

Polar Bear goodies

Isaac Simons meets the Polar Bear

By Nancy and Bill Simons

As it runs through Delaware County, Route 28 offer bucolic scenery, small-town charm, and a portal to the best of the 1950s. Look for the Polar Bear logo in North Franklin (5212 Route 28 South) and pull into the driveway. There’s lots of parking space. You will have just entered “the happy place”— that is how Heather Ross, co-owner with her husband Michael, thinks of the Polar Bear. Although the homemade ice cream, burgers, pizza, and other treats whet the appetite, the Polar Bear is more than an eatery. It is a fun spot.

The Polar Bear name is a longtime local brand, iconic for many. Heather and Michael are the

eighth owners. While they built on a new location and innovate novel items, they embrace Polar Bear traditions and honor the brand built by their predecessors, amongst them Jamie Potter and Janet Powers from Pie in the Sky days.

With a nod to nostalgia, the Polar Bear has many markings of its past. Vintage signs include a chalkboard menu. Photos of bygone days line the walls. A classic 1947 Custard King maker, built by the legendary Tom Carvel, still produces rich ice cream sans the airiness prevalent amongst modern contraptions. Root beer pours from an original oak Richardson’s barrel.

The Polar Bear offers a 1950s atmosphere. There was an underside to the decade, but at its core the 1950s was buoyant, confident, family-oriented, upbeat — and Elvis emerged as its soundtrack. There is music in the shop, and songs by the King and other 1950s singers often play in the background. If the Fonz, Richie, Potsie, and Ralph Malph ever drive through, you can bet they’ll stop at the Polar Bear.

According to Heather, the secret to a superior product is to only use the highest quality ingredients: never skimp! Cream comes from local dairies. Fresh-cut potatoes turn out an order of fries big enough to feed a family. Prepped daily and served on fresh, Delhi-baked Novello rolls, hamburgers are large and tasty. And the Cowboy Burger, Ripper (Hot) Dog, Boom Boom Chicken, and Deep Fried Oreos will sate even the heartiest appetites.

A rainbow of flavors evokes the spirit of ice cream’s soda jerk days. Old-time Vanilla, Chocolate, Coffee, and Strawberry are always inviting, but Polar Bear Tracks, Rocky Road, Mango Tango, Mint Chocolate, Peanut Butter Freak, and Nancy’s Berry Delight challenge an ever-evolving lineup of handmade creations for top billing. Bountiful topping options — sprinkles, Jelly Bellies, Swedish Fish, coconut flakes, and whipped cream — crown sundaes, banana splits, ice cream bowls, cones, dishes, and floats. The Polar Bear also offers sugar and lactose-free products. Cakes, pies, and donuts headline the baked goods. And it is ok to put ice cream on anything!

Another type of pie is in the house, pizza. Distinctive pizza and stuffed rolls emerge from Michael, operating the oven out back. Following the traditions and recipes of his Calabrian forebearers, Michael bakes on stone. A faux street sign aside the Polar Bear honors the original last name of his paternal grandfather, Basilio D’Urzo. Unlike thin pies, Michael’s pizza has body, flavored by generous amounts of quality cheese, sauce, and specialty toppings. During county fair season, Michael does a road trip.

Families form a customer mainstay. But sports “teams come in on their own after practice.” And Heather notes, “high schoolers going to the prom have dinner” at the Polar Bear and take “pictures by the pond.” Couples and solos also receive warm welcome. Take out is available.

The Polar Bear is a family affair. With the co-owners running on 8 cylinders — Heather making the ice cream, sometimes rising as early as 2 AM to start production, and Michael presiding over the Italian kitchen — daughter Jessica manages the shop out front. An electrical and HVAC specialist, son Matthew attends to the physical infrastructure. In the beginning, Michael, experienced in construction, and Matthew spearheaded the building of the shop and layout of the grounds. Bonnie, Matthew’s fiancée, handles orders and scoops ice cream. The three grandchildren demonstrate expertise and enthusiasm as taste-testers.

Despite long work-hours, Heather’s good nature and perpetual smile never falter and appear contagious. The Ross family loves what they do, and it shows. When peak summer season necessitates expanding staff, Heather and family have a keen eye for hiring those who share their commitment to an excellence built on “three C's: customer service, consistency, and cleanliness.”

Many folks choose to eat inside at tables amidst “Happy Days” surroundings. On warm days, customers might choose outdoor seating near the pound just a few steps from the shop.

From any direction and for anyone amenable to a warm weather drive, the Polar Bear is a beckoning destination. Open this year from March 29th to the cusp of Thanksgiving — Wednesday through Sunday, 12 noon to 7 or 8 PM depending on the season — it is an inviting stop even when there is a bit of a chill in the air. But it is a destination drive. There is no adjacent downtown or strip mall. Presiding over a stand-alone, Heather, Michael, and family are committed to providing good value and producing a quality product.

For Heather, legacy means that the Polar Bear remains a family enterprise, centered on “fun food” long into the future. Anticipating generations to come, she envisions that years from now the Polar Bear will still scoop out ice cream — and smiles!