By Diane Dobry
The Land of Milk and Honey (and Fruits and Vegetables)
SCHOHARIE — As I approached the store known as the Carrot Barn, the street-level signs say “Schoharie Valley Farms” with greenhouses and outdoor areas for plants next to the parking lot. Pumpkins and fall décor lined the wooden front porch and surrounded the doorway into the warm, homey building. Walking in, I felt like Judy Garland as Dorothy walking out of her black and white house after the tornado dropped it into the vibrant Land of Oz. The scent of apples hit me first, as I passed baskets of at least six different varieties surrounded by products to help buyers turn those apples into pies, cakes, or just baked fruit. Bins were filled with shiny, plump, fresh peppers and others offered a selection of potatoes of different shapes, sizes and colors. Many more bins were filled with fresh, ripe produce. Carrots were available, of course, and more fruits—pears and berries.
A Few of My Favorite Things
Not sure where to look next, I ventured further into the shop in search of the promised breakfast, but I was drawn to another passion—kitchen tools and decorative items: towels, placemats, pie crust protectors, old fashioned apple peeling hardware, plates, bowls, cutting boards…and more. I wasn’t like Dorothy chanting lions and tigers and bears, oh my! I was chanting, teas, honeys, and spice blends, oh boy!
When I saw the large glass case of bakery items—cupcakes, cheesecake, cookies, brownies, and dozens of apple cider donuts, I knew this was the destination. Looking up, I scrutinized the menu boards like a tourist in New York City gazes up at the tall skyscrapers. I imagined the various sandwiches, soups, and specials meeting my taste buds, and weighed which ones best suited my appetite. I chose a few—a half sandwich, with turkey, cheese, fresh tomatoes, and my choice of mayonnaise (I chose pesto). Some creamy asparagus and vegetable soup and a chocolate cupcake piled high with frosting completed the meal. It was not breakfast, but it turned out to be an ideal lunch. Artisanal soft drinks, cider, local milk products, and specialty water filled a small fridge nearby. I was later told, the original carrot cake recipe from the former owners is also still served. Tables and chairs are positioned throughout the store with some on the porch for al fresco dining.
Spreading the Word
Excited at having discovered this gem, I vowed to return again, and hoped to tell others what I found by writing this article. After asking to meet the owner or manager, I was quickly shaking hands with Ethan Ball, co-owner and son of Richard Ball, the original buyer in 1993 of 200 acres of farmland and the Carrot Barn originally owned by the Westheimer family—thus, Schoharie Valley Farms was born. While that is the formal name of the business, some people from the area still call it The Carrot Barn.
The History of The Owners and the Store
Ethan was 15 when his family relocated from Rhode Island, where his parents helped manage a farm until the owner’s sons and nephews grew up and took more active roles. Richard, with some background in farming and nursery work before that, and his wife, Susan, worked with the owners of the Rhode Island farm from the mid-1970s until 1993. Susan also contributed creative skills of floral arranging and professional sewing to the community.
Once in Schoharie, Ethan joined FFA (Future Farmers of America) and eventually enrolled in Ag Business courses at SUNY Cobleskill. His sister, Sarah, who also worked on the family farm, graduated from Cornell. Younger sister, JoLyn, also helps out on the farm, and with a degree from LeMoyne, also has a career in psychology. An older son, Steven, lives in New Hampshire.
Making the Business Their Own
Moving to Schoharie meant colder weather, so to extend the growing season, Richard built the first of his greenhouses the spring after they arrived. Over time they built more greenhouses along with “a great team.” It doesn’t hurt that an agricultural college is nearby, Ethan said. They currently recruit students for jobs and internships to help in the fields, wash potatoes, pack parsnips, and “go like gangbusters in the fall to get the harvest in,” he added.
While his sisters helped to create the farm-to-table soup and sandwich deli business, the family continues to grow and contribute in their own unique ways running the greenhouses, the farm, and the deli/ bakery. Ethan’s daughter, Taylor Ball, helps out in the greenhouses. Some of the younger children pitch in too, doing things like boxing up the cider donuts. “We are giving them the options of figuring out what makes them tick and to work hard at jobs of their choosing,” Ethan said.
Many Hands Make Good Products
In addition to family, they work with other farmers and partners from the community. The Rocker Box Spice Company, run by a local Schoharie woman, provides blended spices and items like shallot flakes and truffle salts. Other farmers provide their products of beef, berries and dairy products. “That is one of our strengths,” Ethan said. “We are not trying to do everything ourselves, in order to create a great product.”
The central theme of the establishment is food, so gift items include kitchen items and country décor. Though they study market trends, go to gift shows, and work with local craftspeople, Ethan says that the goal is to keep the same ambiance and atmosphere focused on farm-fresh food and a straight up country farm sentiment.
Navigating the Pandemic
I always ask the businesses I visit in Schoharie County that were around when I lived here a decade ago, “How did you survive COVID?” They all say the same thing, “It was a scary time, and lots of changes had to be made.” But country farmers are used to dealing with changes in the weather and the markets, making adjustments when necessary. The Ball family had to make some tough decisions on growing and selling food, keeping their employees working, and serving their customers’ needs.
“During COVID, our customer base expanded as more downstate people moved to the area,” Ethan explained, adding that people in lockdown were getting in touch with their need to cook and be self-sufficient. So, the store “adapted and improvised.” Since they were still farming, they added meals to their sales options and partnered with organizations to make up food boxes and deliver them to New York City. Local customers emailed them with shopping lists and the staff bagged the items and provided curbside, hands-free pickup. In spite of the uncertainty, the business kept its crew busy and employed while allowing people to get food that they needed.
“We figured out a way to make it through and we learned a lot,” Ethan said.
Country Comfort is the Goal
Whether it is the holidays, the fruitful summers, the challenges of a worldwide pandemic, the goal of the family is for people to come to the Carrot Barn (Schoharie Valley Farms) and to good there. “We are trying to make a living,” Ethan said, “but we are not aggressively selling anything. We want people to feel comfortable.”
Schoharie Valley Farms and The Carrot Barn are at 5605 NY Route 30 in Schoharie, south of Route 88. Find out more at https://www.schoharievalleyfarms.com/.
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